The clock strikes 7pm as I venture down the sweeping maroon staircase into a scene straight out of a roaring twenties drama.
Perched on a hillside, the Victorian hotel stands steadfast against fierce Atlantic winds as a burnt orange sunset radiates through enormous bay windows.
I brush shoulders with flappers in embellished dresses and feathered headpieces, while men in sharply tailored suits from a time gone by scurry into the dining room.
Disappointed that I don’t have an invite to the exclusive murder mystery that’s about to unfold, but spurred on by an empty stomach and desperate need for a cocktail, I’m seated in the Renmor — one of The Headland’s exquisite culinary offerings.
One of Cornwall’s best-known hotels, The Headland overlooks Newquay’s famous Fistral Beach and has done since it welcomed its first guests in 1900, having been completed two years prior.
Its expansive ballroom made it the perfect venue for orchestral performances and gatherings of the south’s high society, including King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra, before it was requisitioned as a RAF hospital during World War II.
The £255 reason you should visit The Headland in 2025
This year, The Headland is celebrating its 125th anniversary with a special offer that’s running from Jan 2 to April 3.
You’ll be able to enjoy a bed & breakfast stay in one of the bedrooms or one-bedroom village view cottages from just £125 for up to two people per night — that’s a staggering £255 discount on the £380 nightly rate.
The deal includes complimentary use of the luxury spa facilities including the pool, complete with bubble seats and a swan neck jet, aromatherapy showers, and a hot tub.
There’s also complimentary access to AquaClub with six pools and a terrace overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.
Now, 45 years and £30 million of refurbishments later, this place is the pinnacle of quintessential English luxury, with service that’s been enough to tempt King Charles III and Queen Camilla to visit, and other royals to stay in the 86 bedroom hotel on multiple occasions.
As someone who has always felt an aversion to the idea of a holiday in Cornwall, I assumed I’d feel turned off by the four million strong hoard of tourists that visits the southern county each year.
But two nights at The Headland changed my mind. In fact, I’ve found myself counting the days until I can go back.
Though it was my first visit, I was greeted like an old friend. The staff were exceptional, making every penny of the £760 room cost, for two nights, unequivocally worth it.
Having stayed at five-star hotels in luxury destinations such as Dubai and Miami, I can confirm this Cornwall property rivals the likes of Atlantis, The Palm and JW Marriotts when it comes to service and guest experience.
Dining in The Renmor
My evening sitting in The Renmor is another reason I’ll hurry back to The Headland. I was served perhaps the best meal I’ve ever had.
After a classic margarita at the bar, I indulged in the most upmarket fried chicken appetiser you ever did see (£7), before enjoying a starter of Galician octopus with romesco and gooseberry (£13).
The nutty flavours complimented the seafood perfectly. My only critique is the reserved portion size, though I’ll admit I’m greedy when it comes to food. The standout was the surf’n’turf main course, consisting of lobster that had been caught that day (price on request), and a slab of succulent 10z medium-rare sirloin (£40).
While I often find lobster to be more hassle than it’s worth when scraping the meat out the shell, the chefs were a step ahead, having prepared the meat alongside stuffing it with mouth-watering mushroom duxelles and spinach.
This was accompanied by a bowl of thousand-layer fries (£7) which melted on my tongue. The meal was a coastal sensation of flavour and classic combinations.
But it’s not just the food that makes The Headland great, it shines in pretty much every regard, its sumptuous rooms another major selling point.
Sage green walls frame the homely yet luxurious space, with plush four-poster canopy beds and balconies that capture breathtaking sea views.
The caw of seagulls can be heard from the marble bathroom, which boasts a standalone tub, walk-in shower and heated flooring.
It’s the perfect place to unwind with a glass of champagne and a bubble bath after a long day of coastal walks.
Things to do in Cornwall
There’s plenty to do around the hotel besides the cliffside trails. An unexpected highlight was cider tasting at Healey’s Cyder Farm followed by afternoon cream tea (£8), a true Cornish delicacy. (But what goes first, cream or jam?)
As someone who prefers a glass of Picpoul de Pinet to anything else, I was unsure as to whether I’d enjoy myself, but again, I couldn’t have been more wrong.
On a guided-tour (£50 per person) by Healey’s brilliant expert, Steve, I explored the birthplace of the brand, 150 years after the first bottle was made.
‘Back then, the average labourer drank four to five pints a day, and double that in the summer,’ Steve explains as he led us round the production facility. Healey’s churns out 52 million bottles a year – that’s 6,500 bottles an hour – enough to knock even the burliest farmer off his feet.
After the history lesson, it was time to sit and drink. We tasted Rattler Original, Cornish Gold, Scrumpy, Cornish Whiskey Reserve, Rattler Dry Gin, Cornish Rum, Healey’s whiskey, brandy and sparkling wine. Somehow I managed to leave on two legs.
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Did it all go straight to my head? Absolutely. But Steve had the perfect remedy for that too – a cream tea. Complete with the rich clotted cream and sweet strawberry jam, they were absolutely divine.
After a long day of drinking, a trip to the spa is the only remedy. The Headland’s new spa is free to use for guests, and there’s plenty to test out: a steam room, sauna and multiple heated pools, along with an open-air hot tub with views of Fistral beach.
I’ve never slept more comfortably and, after a delicious avocado on toast for breakfast the next day, I couldn’t help but feel content with my off-season stay.
The only downside to this hotel? You have to check out.
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